Gallery - Kids - Outdoor

Nikon D7000 + 35mm (f/1.8) Lens + SB-700 Flash
F/3.5, 1/200, ISO 200, EC=0, WB: Auto, Flash, Aperture mode, Standard

.Nikon D7000 + 85mm (f/1.8) Lens + SB-700 Flash
f/2.8, 1/1250, WB: Cloudy, ISO 200, EC= 0, Flash: None
Aperture mode, Portrait Scene Capture
RAW + JPEG
Processed in Photoshop Elements 9

Shooting Under Shade of Tree

Nikon D7000 + 85mm (f/1.8) Lens + SB-700 Flash
Details: Aperture Priority f/2.8, 1/2500, ISO 400, EC = 0. White  Balance set to Cloudy.

I placed Hannah in the shade of a tree with her back to the sun at Ft. Lowell Park. Shooting at f2.8 works okay for a 3/4 (left) or full length, but I think f4 works better for faces and head and shoulders. Note. To process photos, I adjust the levels and sharpened the image in Elements 6

 

SunShooting test photos in the sun,

Shooting in direct sun light is always a challenge.

Position the model with her back to the sun and watch for sun spill on the face and shirt. I used Lastolite white balance with fill flash. EC = +.7, Aperture Mode, Portrait Scene Capture, ISO 400, 1/4000 second, 85mm lens set at f/2.8. Nikon D7000 with SB-700 flash.

Note the nice smile and eye contact. (Shooting at 1.8 would blur the cactus more.)

The test photo was taken at Trails West in the Walking Park.
The young model is Remi, a third grade student. I was teaching Remi's mother how to take photos in shade and sun with her Nikon D3000 camera.

I grabbed this quick snap with my Nikon D7000 with 85mm lens at f/4 (Aperture Priority), 1/800, ISO 400, EC = +.7. White balance was set to Cloudy, A1. I often use the "Cloudy" white balance setting in both shade and sun. It warms skin tones.

Shooting test photos in the shade

I recommend shooting faces, tops, 3/4, and full lengths in the shade, adjusting Exposure Compensation as needed. I used Lastolite white balance in this set; however, I usually set the camera to the "Cloudy" white balance setting.

Position the model with the sun to her back and watch for sun spill. I added fill flash. Aperture Mode, Portrait Scene Capture, EC = +.7, ISO 400, 1/2000, 85mm lens set at f/2.8. Nikon D7000 with SB-700 flash.

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FAQ

What settings would be recommended to capture the picture instead of a blur while my son is sliding, swinging, etc.?

It depends what action you are trying to freeze. On a sunny day with kids on the playground I use Shutter Priority (TV) and set it anywhere from 1/500-1/1600 sec. and use ISO100-200; if less light then drop that to 1/250-1/640 at ISO200. It really depends on the speed of the action you want to freeze. The S3 does very well at action and technically goes all the way to 1/3200 sec - combined with a half decent f/3.5 lens at the 12x end it takes in a fair amount of light for action/sporting events. A little hint here is set the shutter and ISO then do a half-way press on the shutter button and on the LCD it will 'darken' the screen slightly showing you based on the Shutt/Aper/ISO combo what exposure you will have in the shot. If its to dark adjust accordingly, if well lit/exposed then take the shot. This is trial and error and sometimes takes 2-3 shots to get it right sometimes. BTW in good light in 'P' mode the S3 does well at picking the highest possible shutter speed/aper. combo to get the shot. I used this mode alot at Disney last summer.

The shot below was in bright sunlight as a result the water is over-exposed but the point is that the camera picked 1/1600s for the shutter speed in 'P' mode. If I would have used -EC this shot would have been better exposed - but still tough conditions no matter what you do.

1/1600s f/4.5 ISO100 at Spash Mountain in Magic Kingdom:

bright light in Shutter Prior. (TV) mode at 1/1250s f/3.5 ISO100 -2/3EC:

Usually you can freeze the children movement with 1/250 s. So get in the Aperture Priority mode and select the largest aperture available (f/2.7) and increase the ISO speed as needed to obtain at least 1/250 s.

If you have motion blur even at 1/250 s then try the speed that suits your kids. Disable OIS during this since it will not help you and maybe will cuse you problems. With ISO 80 on a normal day you should have about 1/800 s at f/2.7 more than enough. In bright days you may be forced to close the aperture at f/4. The problems would occur only if you try to make this type of pictures in the twilight time. No camera will help you with that since the ISO speed should be at least ISO3200 to get 1/250 s at f/2.8. For dSLR there are lens at f/1.4 and ISO1600 is quite good.